Istanbul - Day One

I'm back! What a perfect weekend! I knew it was off to a good start when I saw the weather forecast for the three days I'd be in Istanbul. More good omens followed when I boarded the plane and discovered I had the whole row - three seats! - to myself for the long 12-hour flight to Paris. Then there was the plane itself. It was one of those with individual movie screens on the back of every seat and a plethora of movies to choose from, movies to watch at any time during the flight, movies I hadn't yet seen! As if all that wasn't treat enough, the Air France flight attendants kept strolling through the aisles offering more mini-baguettes and more mini-bottles of wine. How could I resist? When in Rome, right? Needless to say, it was a lovely flight. The kind of flight that makes you feel like you're going somewhere special (even if Paris is not your final destination). If I hadn't been so eager to get to Istanbul, and if 12 delightful hours on a plane didn't still feel like 12 hours on a plane, I almost would have been sad to de-plane. The short flight from Paris to Istanbul was full and on time. I arrived at my hotel just after midnight, and just in time for a Skype session with my boys, who were just waking up in Kobe.

I spent Friday touring the main attractions of the Sultanahmet area. I woke up just before 6:00 and decided to get an early start. I took a quick shower, grabbed my camera, and went for a stroll. It was great being out and about before anyone else was up, save the bread vendors. I got some fairly good shots at that early morning hour; my favorite being this one of the Blue Mosque and the lone Turk waiting to sell his bread. The benches near him would be filled with tourists the rest of the day, especially at night when the mosque is flood-lit. 

After my early morning stroll, I went back to the hotel for breakfast on the rooftop. I had my first taste of Turkish tea and my first glimpse of the Bosphorus Strait.

I then set out for the day. I visited Haghia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern, and the Blue Mosque - all of which are within easy walking distance of one another. I found I was most impressed by the architecture of these buildings. They make an absolutely stunning skyline. Their insides are equally as impressive with their domed ceilings, arched doorways and windows, hand-painted tiles, Arabic writings, and tipped-over Medusas(?). 

Just as I was making my way to the Blue Mosque, a Turkish man offered to walk with me and 'help' me. He arranged it so I could enter the Mosque via a door that was only for locals and which had a much shorter line. My first introduction to the infamously charming Turk! Of course, he asked that I visit his carpet shop after I leave the Mosque... And so I did. I figured I'd play the game. When in Rome, right? So, I visited his carpet shop where he and his uncle pulled out countless carpets for me to look at and ahhh over. I sipped on my second glass of Turkish tea that morning and agreed that, yes, the carpets were certainly gorgeous. If only I was in the market for a carpet. We then got to talking about Istanbul and how much I was enjoying it thus far. The uncle advised me to enjoy it as a visitor but to never live there as it was much too dangerous. Dangerous? Why? Anti-American sentiments? "No. Because, if you ever move here, you will fall in love with a Turkish man and it will ruin your marriage. Very dangerous." I told him if the opportunity of moving to Istanbul ever presented itself, I'd take my chances! I politely excused myself after I finished my tea and went on my way. I stopped at the lovely Cafe Amedros and lunched on some stuffed grape leaves and an Efes beer on my way to the Grand Bazaar. A bit of refueling was in order!

The Grand Bazaar. I wasn't in much of a shopping mood, and there is only so much Turkish charm a girl can handle in one day, so I didn't spend much time there. It is an amazing place, however. As I was walking through the streets of the Bazaar, I tried to imagine what it was like back in the late 1400s when it was filled with merchants of long ago selling and trading their wares.

Needing a change of pace, I decided it was time to hop on the tram and go pick up my concert ticket at Istiklal Kitabevi. The tram took me across the water to another area of Istanbul which I hadn't seen yet. I must admit, that at that point in the afternoon, it felt nice to sight-see from the comfort of a tram seat! On the way back to the Sultanahmet area, I stopped at the Spice Bazaar - a much smaller and more manageable bazaar - and had a look around. The spices were in beautiful mounds of yellows and oranges, reds and browns. The smell was heavenly.

Dinner found me at the Rumeli Cafe - a restaurant recommended to me by some friends here in Kobe. With a view of the Blue Mosque and a delicious stewed lamb dish, it didn't disappoint. After dinner I headed to Cemberlitas Hamam - a Turkish bath. I paid for the full works, and this is how the full works worked: Upon entering the women's section of the hamam, I was met by a bath attendant who showed me to my locker and gave me a small towel and a pair of slippers. Towel-clad, I walked into the main bathing area where I was met by yet another attendant. This attendant instructed me to lay face down on my towel on a large slab of marble in the center of the hot room. A few minutes later, she came and started scrubbing me down with a kese and lathering me up in soap. She then rinsed me with buckets of warm water, followed by buckets of cold water. I then soaked in a hot tub for a few minutes and went for a 30-minute oil massage. All in all, it was a good experience. (No, that's not me in the photo! It's the free postcard I got when leaving. And no, the bath is not usually enjoyed by one lucky woman at a time. That marble slab had several women on it when I was there. But, you get the idea...) 

On my way back to the hotel, I walked past Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque again to see them lit up at night. Beautiful! As timing would have it, the call to prayer was just beginning. I watched, mesmerized, as people drifted toward the mosque...answering yet another call to prayer.

More on Days Two and Three tomorrow.