Istanbul - Day Three

Sunday, my last day in Istanbul, was spent the way Sundays were meant to be spent:

Brunching beside the Bosphorus

Strolling along the Bosphorus

Cruising down the Bosphorus

Boat watching on the Bosphorus

Castle viewing from the Bosphorus

Enjoying one last beer...not far from the Bosphorus

My wonderful weekend came to an end, as all good things must. But I'll be visiting Istanbul again, someday, as it is far too fascinating a city to only visit once in a lifetime. Thanks for a wonderful weekend, S&S! Until next time!

******************

Monday came much too soon, with a 6:15AM flight out of Istanbul. I had a seven-hour layover on the way back home, so I hopped on a train and spent a few of those hours roaming around one of my favorite cities:

Sipping a cappuccino at a corner cafe

Enjoying a gelato in the piazza

Sight-seeing at the Pantheon

When in Rome...right?

Istanbul - Day Two

I awoke Saturday with that "Today's the Day!" feeling one gets on special occasions. Saturday was the day I would meet up with old friends and see Loreena McKennitt in concert - two very special occasions, indeed!

The morning began with another rooftop breakfast, followed by more sight-seeing. This time I visited Topkapi Palace, home of the sultan and his court during the Ottoman Empire. The buildings and grounds have been beautifully maintained, and one could spend an entire day exploring the palace. I only had a couple of hours, so I chose to focus on the Harem. This part of the palace was the residence for the wives, concubines, and female relatives of the sultan. It was also the home of the Queen Mother, the sultan's mother, who ran the Harem and had great influence over the Empire. From the little I learned in two hours, it was a fascinating time in history.

After visiting Topkapi Palace, I walked back to the hotel so I could pack and check-out. As I was coming down the stairs with my bags, a familiar face was smiling up at me from across the hotel lobby. Sean! At long last! Big hugs, lots of laughter, and huge smiles marked the moment. (I'm still smiling!) Realizing we couldn't stand in the lobby all day, I quickly settled my hotel bill and we were off. We took the tram and headed to his place in Beyoglu, catching up along the way. I barely had my feet in their doorway when another familiar face peeked at me from around the corner. Susan! More hugs and more laughter and more smiles! Words can't really express how it good it was to see their faces and hear their voices after eight long years. For those of you who don't know, Sean and Susan (both from Australia) are good friends of mine from my teaching days in Lithuania. They started at the school the same year I did - 1998 - and for three years we enjoyed Vilnius and its environs together. That was my first overseas experience, and they are largely responsible for the wonderful time I had - am still having - as an overseas teacher. The school we taught at, the American International School of Vilnius, was a very small school, with only a handful of teachers. Had I come in with a different group of people, people who didn't know how to have a good time, I might not be living the life I'm living today. I may have packed it up after my initial two-year contract and gone back home. No kidding. So, here's to Sean and Susan!

It took us about thirty seconds to make our way to their balcony, and another ten seconds for Susan to serve us all G&T's (just as promised!). We spent the next couple of hours catching up on all we'd missed over the last 8 years - news of our friends and former colleagues from AISV in Lithuania, my time in Peru and Japan, their time in Thailand and Turkey... We paused only now and again so we could comment on the gorgeous view from their balcony:

While Susan was seeing her niece (who had been traveling in Turkey for 6 weeks and was headed back to Australia) off to the airport, Sean and I walked to Istiklal Caddesi. This is the main shopping and strolling street in Istanbul, and I was able to pick up a few souvenirs - a scarf, some evil eyes (can you say 'Christmas ornaments', family-o-mine?!), a vase, a few boxes of Turkish Delight candies, and some 'musical' spoons for Denis.

The three of us went back to the balcony (one could spend whole days out there!) and had dinner al fresco. More catching up and more marveling at the spectacular views. I love this shot of Asian Istanbul as the sun was starting to set. For a few moments, we were blinded by the bright golden light as the sun reflected off the windows and bounced off the water.

Suddenly, it was time. It was time to get dressed and head to the concert. THE concert. The one I'd traveled 6,000 miles to go to! Sean walked me to the venue - Cemil Topuzlu Harbiye Amphitheatre - which was, coincidentally enough, in their neighborhood. I found my seat and waited out the 15 minutes with a mixture of emotions. I was beyond excited! I was finally going to see one of my favorite artists perform live. The show couldn't start soon enough! And yet, I felt a bit nostalgic, if that's possible. Something I'd been waiting a long time for was about to happen and would soon be over. I was worried I wouldn't 'take it in' enough, or 'lose myself in the moment' enough, or something like that. You know that feeling? It was almost as if I was nervous for her to walk out on stage. Silly, isn't it?! Well, she did walk out on stage, and she played and sang her heart out for two hours. It was absolutely fabulous! And I took in every moment of it. I found I kept closing my eyes so that I could hear her voice and the music more clearly. (You should have been there with me, sis! I know you - who introduced me to her music in the first place - would have loved it as much as I did. For what it's worth, I could feel you in the empty seat next to me!) And then... it was over. But, and this is a BIG BUT, the excitement wasn't over for me just yet. Why? Because, I HAD A BACKSTAGE PASS TO MEET LOREENA MCKENNITT!! Yes, it's true! I got to go backstage and chat with Loreena for a few moments. Talk about nervous and giddy with excitement! What do you actually say to someone you've admired for so long? I knew our meeting would be brief as there were many other people backstage waiting to meet her as well, so I made some pleasant small talk and told her how thoroughly I enjoyed the concert. We chatted for a few more moments, making the connection of how I came to be there that night, and then I was on my way. How did I come to be there that night?, you are probably wondering. Let's just say I have a wonderful mother-in-law who just happens to have made Loreena's acquaintance through a mutual friend/relative. (THANK YOU, MAR!) Unfortunately, I have no photos of the concert or our meeting, but not to worry. They're forever etched in my mind.

Istanbul - Day One

I'm back! What a perfect weekend! I knew it was off to a good start when I saw the weather forecast for the three days I'd be in Istanbul. More good omens followed when I boarded the plane and discovered I had the whole row - three seats! - to myself for the long 12-hour flight to Paris. Then there was the plane itself. It was one of those with individual movie screens on the back of every seat and a plethora of movies to choose from, movies to watch at any time during the flight, movies I hadn't yet seen! As if all that wasn't treat enough, the Air France flight attendants kept strolling through the aisles offering more mini-baguettes and more mini-bottles of wine. How could I resist? When in Rome, right? Needless to say, it was a lovely flight. The kind of flight that makes you feel like you're going somewhere special (even if Paris is not your final destination). If I hadn't been so eager to get to Istanbul, and if 12 delightful hours on a plane didn't still feel like 12 hours on a plane, I almost would have been sad to de-plane. The short flight from Paris to Istanbul was full and on time. I arrived at my hotel just after midnight, and just in time for a Skype session with my boys, who were just waking up in Kobe.

I spent Friday touring the main attractions of the Sultanahmet area. I woke up just before 6:00 and decided to get an early start. I took a quick shower, grabbed my camera, and went for a stroll. It was great being out and about before anyone else was up, save the bread vendors. I got some fairly good shots at that early morning hour; my favorite being this one of the Blue Mosque and the lone Turk waiting to sell his bread. The benches near him would be filled with tourists the rest of the day, especially at night when the mosque is flood-lit. 

After my early morning stroll, I went back to the hotel for breakfast on the rooftop. I had my first taste of Turkish tea and my first glimpse of the Bosphorus Strait.

I then set out for the day. I visited Haghia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern, and the Blue Mosque - all of which are within easy walking distance of one another. I found I was most impressed by the architecture of these buildings. They make an absolutely stunning skyline. Their insides are equally as impressive with their domed ceilings, arched doorways and windows, hand-painted tiles, Arabic writings, and tipped-over Medusas(?). 

Just as I was making my way to the Blue Mosque, a Turkish man offered to walk with me and 'help' me. He arranged it so I could enter the Mosque via a door that was only for locals and which had a much shorter line. My first introduction to the infamously charming Turk! Of course, he asked that I visit his carpet shop after I leave the Mosque... And so I did. I figured I'd play the game. When in Rome, right? So, I visited his carpet shop where he and his uncle pulled out countless carpets for me to look at and ahhh over. I sipped on my second glass of Turkish tea that morning and agreed that, yes, the carpets were certainly gorgeous. If only I was in the market for a carpet. We then got to talking about Istanbul and how much I was enjoying it thus far. The uncle advised me to enjoy it as a visitor but to never live there as it was much too dangerous. Dangerous? Why? Anti-American sentiments? "No. Because, if you ever move here, you will fall in love with a Turkish man and it will ruin your marriage. Very dangerous." I told him if the opportunity of moving to Istanbul ever presented itself, I'd take my chances! I politely excused myself after I finished my tea and went on my way. I stopped at the lovely Cafe Amedros and lunched on some stuffed grape leaves and an Efes beer on my way to the Grand Bazaar. A bit of refueling was in order!

The Grand Bazaar. I wasn't in much of a shopping mood, and there is only so much Turkish charm a girl can handle in one day, so I didn't spend much time there. It is an amazing place, however. As I was walking through the streets of the Bazaar, I tried to imagine what it was like back in the late 1400s when it was filled with merchants of long ago selling and trading their wares.

Needing a change of pace, I decided it was time to hop on the tram and go pick up my concert ticket at Istiklal Kitabevi. The tram took me across the water to another area of Istanbul which I hadn't seen yet. I must admit, that at that point in the afternoon, it felt nice to sight-see from the comfort of a tram seat! On the way back to the Sultanahmet area, I stopped at the Spice Bazaar - a much smaller and more manageable bazaar - and had a look around. The spices were in beautiful mounds of yellows and oranges, reds and browns. The smell was heavenly.

Dinner found me at the Rumeli Cafe - a restaurant recommended to me by some friends here in Kobe. With a view of the Blue Mosque and a delicious stewed lamb dish, it didn't disappoint. After dinner I headed to Cemberlitas Hamam - a Turkish bath. I paid for the full works, and this is how the full works worked: Upon entering the women's section of the hamam, I was met by a bath attendant who showed me to my locker and gave me a small towel and a pair of slippers. Towel-clad, I walked into the main bathing area where I was met by yet another attendant. This attendant instructed me to lay face down on my towel on a large slab of marble in the center of the hot room. A few minutes later, she came and started scrubbing me down with a kese and lathering me up in soap. She then rinsed me with buckets of warm water, followed by buckets of cold water. I then soaked in a hot tub for a few minutes and went for a 30-minute oil massage. All in all, it was a good experience. (No, that's not me in the photo! It's the free postcard I got when leaving. And no, the bath is not usually enjoyed by one lucky woman at a time. That marble slab had several women on it when I was there. But, you get the idea...) 

On my way back to the hotel, I walked past Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque again to see them lit up at night. Beautiful! As timing would have it, the call to prayer was just beginning. I watched, mesmerized, as people drifted toward the mosque...answering yet another call to prayer.

More on Days Two and Three tomorrow.

A Room With A View

It's a little past midnight Istanbul time, and I've just arrived at my hotel. THIS is the view from my window. No kidding! Can't wait to get out and explore the Sultanahmet area tomorrow. From what I've seen so far, I'm going to love it.

Off to Istanbul

I'm off for my weekend in Istanbul! You can't imagine how excited I am!

I'll spare you any more quotes from The Wind in the Willows, but let me just say that yesterday's chapter was all about those who are blessed/cursed by their wayfaring ways. And there was even mention of Constantinople - an ancient city! A glorious city! I'm about to find out...

This and That

Jon asked me soon after we returned home with Denis how long it would be before I stopped taking pictures of every little thing D did. I guess the answer is about 3 months, if empty iPhoto folders and dusty camera tops are any indication. It's not that Denis is no longer in the spotlight (believe me, he makes sure our full attention is on him!), it's just that it feels like he's been with us all along. I don't feel the need to record every. single. moment. anymore. But here are a few random shots I've managed to take over the last few weeks.

And since I'm playing catch up, here's a list of some of D's latest words:

• moon ("mewn")
  
• star ("taa")
  
• bus
  
• car ("caa")
  
• plane ("pane")
  
• doggie
  
• kitty-cat ("kee-cat")
  
• bird ("biid")
• stop ("TOP!!")
• mine ("MY!!")

Cottage Fever & Dolce Domum

About this time of year, every year, I get struck by cottage fever. I start to get antsy for a cottage of our own. I begin dreaming of country lanes and kayaking trips. I start scouring online listings of cottages for sale. What am I looking for?

A cottage tucked away in the northern woods, surrounded by pines and birches - but with a clearing and a view so that the girl-from-the-prairie in me won't feel too enclosed. A cottage on a point or in a bay at the edge of a deep, clear lake. A loon-inhabited lake. A private and secluded cottage, but one that's close enough to town for ice cream outings on hot summer days. A cottage with creaky wood floors and afternoon sunlight streaming in through the windows. A cottage with a screened-in porch or a wrap-around deck. A cottage with a long wooden dock on which we'll eat our picnic lunches and from where Denis will learn to dive. A cottage in which I can awake to a songbird symphony and nod off to a croaking chorus of bullfrogs. A cottage that greets us year after year, like an old friend, and takes us in its embrace for the lazy days of summer. A cottage that will give Denis a sense of rootedness and a place of belonging - both of which I feel are ever important in our transient lifestyle.

I don't want much, do I?!

It was as if the chapter I read from The Wind in the Willows last night, entitled "Dolce Domum",  was written just for me. It seems I have much in common with Mole, who's torn between living in his little home underground or exploring the wide open world above.

"He saw clearly how plain and simple ... it all was ... the special value of some such anchorage in one's existence."

"He did not at all want to abandon the new life and its splendid spaces, to turn his back on sun and air and all they offered him and creep home and stay there; the upper world was all too strong, it called to him still, even down there, and he knew he must return to the larger stage. But it was good to think he had this to come back to, this place which was all his own, these things which were so glad to see him again and could always be counted upon for the same simple welcome."

"...they braced themselves for the last long stretch, the home stretch, the stretch that we know is bound to end, some time, in the rattle of the door-latch, the sudden firelight, and the sight of things greeting us as long-absent travellers from far overseas."

Always June

"I wonder what it would be like to live in a world where it was always June."

--L.M. Montgomery, Anne of the Island

I love the month of June. The days are getting warmer, and daylight hours are growing longer. Summer is on her way! Istanbul is calling, and Honolulu is awaiting. Yes, I could live in a world where it was always June!

Piglet Reads!

Lately, Denis has been making sure all of his stuffed animals are reading stories. He'll take one or two animals off his shelf, set them on the futon, and place a book in their laps. Usually, he leaves the books closed. Today, however, he opened not only the book for Piglet, but the flap hiding the baby's hands, too. How sweet is that? You can see it made Piglet's day!

Updates

• School's back in session.
  
• I'm still deciding to FB or not to FB.
  
• I've settled on The Wind in the Willows.  Guess I'm craving more English countryside. Tales from the Expat Harem is waiting in the wings for my trip to Istanbul.

Tickets to the Tigers

Today is Jon's birthday. Denis helped me wrap a couple of gifts this morning - tickets to the Hanshin Tigers baseball game for Monday night and a framed picture of father and son from our first trip to Kaliningrad. We're celebrating with a BBQ dinner with some friends tonight, and the plan is to get a lemon meringue pie in the oven this afternoon. Happy Birthday, Papa!

Captured!

Ever have a hard time moving on to a new book after you've finished one you particularly enjoyed? I recently finished reading I Capture the Castle by Dodie Smith, and since then I can't seem to settle into another book. Nothing is capturing my interest the way that one did. I enjoyed every word from its peculiar opening, "I write this sitting in the kitchen sink", to its bittersweet ending. I loved the setting - a crumbling castle in the English countryside; the characters - the eccentric and endearing and ever-so-helpless Mortmains; and the way in which the story was told - through the journals of a naive, yet wise beyond her years, teenage girl.

Below is the editorial review, in case you're looking for a good read. I highly recommend it!

"I Capture the Castle tells the story of seventeen-year-old Cassandra and her family, who live in not-so-genteel poverty in a ramshackle old English castle. Here she strives, over six turbulent months, to hone her writing skills. She fills three notebooks with sharply funny yet poignant entries. Her journals candidly chronicle the great changes that take place within the castle's walls, and her own first descent into love. By the time she pens her final entry, she has 'captured the castle'--and the heart of the reader--in one of literature's most enchanting entertainments." 

What have YOU been reading lately? Anything worth recommending?

To Facebook or Not To Facebook?

That, apparently, is the question. And I hate to admit that it's even becoming a dilemma for me. I've held out for so long that I'm not sure I can give in now. I can see that there are real benefits to social networking, and I understand that email is almost considered an antiquated form of communication these days, but do I really need to put myself out there so I can be found by anyone and everyone from my past? Do I really need to know what everyone from my present is doing at any given moment? No, not really. 

But here's the thing. I hate that my husband now knows more about my friends' lives than I do. "Hey, did you know that so-and-so is...?" "Guess who's....?" "You'll never believe what....is up to!" And if you know my husband, you can hear him taunting me with such comments, making me beg for tidbits of news about my own friends. "Guess you'll just have to join Facebook to find out." Yes, he's cruel like that.

So, what's a girl to do? Is she to Facebook or not to Facebook? I need convincing, one way or the other.

Swine Flu and Cat Sniffles

One case of Swine Flu (or the H1N1 virus) has been confirmed in the Kobe area and one case of cat sniffles has broken out in our apartment. Authorities have called off school for the week to prevent the former (and admittedly more serious) health issue from becoming wide-spread. And I'm left wondering...what can really be done for the latter? Poor Nazca, I've never seen such a sneezy cat. 

Excuse me while I go wash my hands.

Animal Rites

The first thing Denis sees when he wakes up each morning - or after his nap - is his pillow. He loves his pillow. He especially loves the animals on his pillow. He loves them so much he wants to stay in bed long after he's woken up so he can look at them all.

Of all the animals on his pillow, the porcupine is his favorite. Don't see the porcupine? Here, let Denis point it out for you. (Please picture a stubby little finger tapping three times on the porcupine, tap, tap, tap, to the tune of "oooh, oooh, oooh!")

That stubby little finger then points to the books on a nearby shelf, and a pair of eyes begs you to find the right book. The right book, of course, is this one:

Ten stubby fingers then flip through this book...

...until they find THIS porcupine. This porcupine also gets three little taps of a finger, tap, tap, tap, but this time the tune sounds something like "a-na-na". Which means "another one".

We go through a similar process before going to bed at night. But now the animals of choice are found in this book:

A green frog and a red bird. "Oooh, oooh, oooh!" Guess who has a green frog and a red bird? And guess who wants to show them to you every single time you read this book? 

Tap, tap, tap. "A-na-na!"

Happy Mother's Day!

My first Mother's Day. It started with a snuggle in bed with my three favorite boys - Denis, Jon, and Pisco. There were hugs and kisses and purrrrs aplenty - a wonderful way to start the day. Denis and Jon then treated me to Sunday brunch at the Sheraton Hotel and a beautiful bouquet of sunflowers - my favorites. The rest of the day included a swim at the River Mall and a home-cooked dinner for three. I couldn't have asked for a better way to celebrate the day. 

***Sap & Sentiment Alert: the rest of this post contains sap and sentiment. You've been warned. 

It feels good to have joined the ranks of mothers around the world and in my life. In my short three months' experience, I can honestly say that motherhood is the most challenging and rewarding thing I have ever done. There I things I know I do well when it comes to being D's mom, and things I'm hoping to do better. I hope I always feel this way. 

I'd like to wish a well-deserved Happy Mother's Day to some special mothers. Especially:

• My own mother. I lucked out in life being one of your brood! For as long as I can remember you've told me that your kids were the best thing that ever happened to you - and hearing that still makes me feel warm and fuzzy inside. You're the one who made being a mom look so appealing, so satisfying that I had to see for myself.  Happy Mother's Day, Mom!  I love you. Please go back and read this post. 

• Margaret, my mother-in-law. I'm so glad I like you! ;) You always make me feel like one of the family, and have done so since the first time I met you at Christmas 2000. You're the kind of M-i-L that a girl can enjoy having an afternoon cup of Earl Grey with and playing a good game of Scrabble with (no matter who wins!). Your little Jonathan grew up to be a good man, a great husband, and a wonderful father. And for that I am ever so thankful. Happy Mother's Day, Mar!

• All my friends and family members who are mothers. You are far too many to list, but you know who you are. Please know that I've learned something from each and every one of you. You've all been wonderful role models - and I've been watching for years! For those I get to see daily, thank you for making every ordinary day extraordinary for Denis - playing with your kids is often the highlight of his day. For those I only see once a year or once in a blue moon, thanks for raising your kids to be kids I want Denis to know. I can't wait for him to meet them all - cousins and friends and neighbors galore! 

• D's first mother - his birth mother. Unfortunately, I'll never get the chance to meet you, so I'd like to honor you here. I wish I could tell you how thankful I am that you brought Denis into this world. I give you my word that I'll always help guide him through it. In the short time D was with you, I know in my heart that he learned how to be loved. That is the greatest gift you could have ever given him, and I am incredibly thankful for that. To you, M.V., wherever you may be, Happy Mother's Day.

• The caregivers at the orphanage in Kaliningrad. You all saw to D's needs after his first mother could no longer do so and before I was given the privilege. Each of you played the role of 'mother' to the healthy, happy, handsome little boy who is now my son. I will never know all that you did for him, but I know it was enough to keep him thriving and keep him growing. It was obvious that each of you loved him dearly, and I cannot thank you enough for that. Happy Mother's Day to each of you.

***Notice: sap and sentiment ends here. 

I'll leave you with a laugh. This is a song someone sent to me not long ago. Oh, the phases (and phrases!) of motherhood I have yet to experience!

First Swim of the Season

We went for our first 'swim' of the season this weekend. The weather has been beautiful and the 'river' just started flowing... So it was high time we got our feet wet! The Rokko Island River Mall is a perfect place for young ones to cool off and gain a little confidence in the water, as it isn't very deep. And for the big ones it's a great place for, say, a bottle of yuzu-flavored sake, a bag of wasabi-covered almonds, and some adult chit-chat. (Maximo is going to love it, Julie! Hope these pictures give you an idea of what to expect.)

A Rocket and Nose Story

I have a funny story to share. A story involving a rocket and a nose. Yes, that's right. A rocket and a nose. Wondering how those two things fit together? Let's take a peek inside D's mind. Here's the story.

Once upon a time, a couple of weekends ago, Denis attended a birthday party for three friends. At the end of the party he was given a goody bag. In the goody bag, he found this great toy rocket. I'm sure you can picture how this works. You put the rocket on the gray pump thing and squeeze as hard as you can. Even a two-year-old can squeeze the dickens out of this and send the rocket flying. It's a great toy. Even I love it. 

The cats love it too, as you can see from this poor rocket that escaped neither feline teeth nor claws. And you can imagine how that (the cats chasing the rockets around the room) sends Denis into a tailspin. But that's another story for another post.

Let's continue with the original story, shall we? For the past couple of weeks, Denis has had this nasty runny, stuffy, snotty, crusty nose. Poor kid can hardly breathe at night. So, being the good parents that we are, we employ the use of this handy thing. 

I call it the snot-sucker-outer, but I'm sure there's an official name for it. Nose syringe, perhaps? Anyway, as I was saying, we've been using this thing a lot lately. Especially just before bedtime. After each suck of the snot-sucker-outer, I say "oooooh..." and Denis says "aaaaah..." It's cute and gross all at the same time.

Well, the other day, I was changing D's diaper before his nap. As I was taking care of business down there, he was playing with his rocket - shooting the ships all over the bedroom - stopping every so often to wipe the snot from his nose all over his sleeve. (You can see where this is going, can't you?) As I was finishing up the diaper, all rocket activity came to a halt. I glanced up to see why the sudden stillness, and guess what sight I beheld? Yes, Denis was using the rocket pump as a snot-suck nose syringe. Again, cute and gross all at the same time! But pretty darn ingenious. And possibly a bit dangerous. (Don't worry, grandparents, D and I had a little chat about which one goes in the nose - the white one; and who the only people are that can put it in the nose - Mama and Papa.) Anyway, you can see how the similarity caused the confusion...

Moral of the story? Partners in crime are partners in slime.

The end.